I should explain at this moment that there is only so much planning you can do in advance for a trip of this duration and my Italian job had largely focussed on the question of how recyclable the medieval pilgrim route called the Via Francigena was. I had been reassured to find the main route which comes over the Great St Bernard pass well to the East of my route had been recently signed for cycling according to the excellent website http://www.viafrancigena.bike following a resounding campaign organised by a group called Sloways all related to the slow everything movement in Italy which raised €12000 and signposted the main route.
Howeverr in Turin I had decided that heading West along the P.o. Valley until it hit that route would be taking me well out of my way and I had done the river thing across France and fancied something different. Be careful what you wish for!I
I had a downloadable map of the walking route South of Moon Denis but this has not been officially cycle signed. But I did have a steer from an independent cycling in Italy site which seemed to suggest it was doable. So armed with a sketchy internet description and by now off my N Italian map purchased in Turin I set off from Gavi southwards hopeful but I'll equipped navigationally and under-researched on the geography.
The first climb was excellent and I was pleased by my progress over a 600m col through significant wooded hilly country.
The descent was more enjoyable than coming down mon cenis, less intimidating and my competence coming down feels to be improving as I master leaning into the curves more.
So far so good and the next valley started a slow wind up which felt like I must be winding through the Ligurian Appenines in the morning session.
Then at the top of the valley I realised the walking route took along an uncyclable ridge and I would need to descent and climb a third time. If course by now it was hot and of course this was the toughest climb of the day in terms of gradient. The view from the top was however spectacular but still now med you will note.
This time the descent was the steepest yet down a single lane road which dropped like a stone to deposit me on a steep sides valley with the distinct whiff of sea air and suddenly subtropical vegetation. With increasing excitement I battled through the last 20 km and suddenly I was on the beach 15kms East of Genoa with most of the city out enjoying the beach on this Friday evening.
So of course I did what any right thinking scouse cyclist would do and had a beer to celebrate. The next issue was where to sleep. This stretch still felt too urban and I noted there appeared to be a nicer little place around the corner. My gps directed me along the coast and suddenly I found myself confronted with a tunnel with a traffic light at red. Well it didn't change for 15 minutes and a local shot past the patient queue and I decided to follow suit. There appeared to be red signs indicating cycling and walking was not permitted but to be frank I wasn't going to let that stop me. The first tunnel/gallery lasted a Km and nothing came but after a 100 yards with open air a second longer tunnel opened up and of course I saw oncoming car lights. I had already worked out that there were refuge points followed out of the walls and I just tucked in as they passed - a bit weird but not dangerous. More perturbing was the failure of uber cool light sensitive dynamo powered front light. Anyway I didn't have time to worry about that before the third tunnel looked and this time the traffic I encountered were going my way and were clearly missed off with me for being there so insisted on muscling past - this was definitely scary and when weirdly a turn right arrow with a sign saying camping looked out of the darkness I took it!
Incredibly I got the last space travel but right next to the sea and over the next two hours I enjoyed one of the best seafood meals ever!
But as I enjoyed the coastal scenery it was immediately apparent that my plan to mosmosty along the coast towards the South East was a non runner with huge green hills plunging straight in to the sea. So obstacles overcome but more to do Sunday morning.
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